Mitsubishi Pajero

1982-1998 of release

Repair and car operation



Mitsubisi Padzhero
+ 1.1. Dashboard and control units
+ 2. Maintenance
- 3. Engines
   3.1. Candles
   3.2. Check of wires
   + 3.3. Ignition system
   - 3.4. Major maintenance of the engine
      3.4.1. Engine electric equipment
      3.4.2. Ignition distributor
      + 3.4.3. Generator
      3.4.4. Battery
      3.4.5. Starter
      3.4.6. Traction relay of a starter
      3.4.7. Sensors
      + 3.4.8. Instructions on service and engine repair
      3.4.9. Compression check in cylinders of engines
      3.4.10. Specifications of engines
      + 3.4.11. Removal and engine installation
      3.4.12. Cover of a head of the block of cylinders
      + 3.4.13. Rollers and yokes
      3.4.14. Thermostat of system of cooling
      3.4.15. Inlet collector
      3.4.16. Final collector
      3.4.17. The incorporated collector (a diesel engine with a turbo-supercharging)
      3.4.18. Turbokompressor
      3.4.19. Turbonagnetatel
      3.4.20. Radiator
      3.4.21. Maslookhladitel
      3.4.22. Fan
      3.4.23. The pump of cooling liquid
      + 3.4.24. Head of cylinders
      3.4.25. Valves and springs
      3.4.26. Saddles
      3.4.27. Replacement of directing plugs
      3.4.28. Hydropushers
      + 3.4.29. Gear belt and covers
      3.4.30. Chain and cover (engine of 2,6 l)
      3.4.31. Oil pallet
      3.4.32. Oil pump and saylent-rollers (vibrogasitel)
      3.4.33. Cam-shafts and support
      3.4.34. Check of a condition of a cam-shaft
      + 3.4.35. Pistons and rods
      3.4.36. Back epiploon
      3.4.37. Radical bearings
      3.4.38. Flywheel
      + 3.4.39. Exhaust system
   + 3.5. Diesel and turbodiesel engines 2,5 and 2,8 of l
+ 4. Cooling system
+ 5. Greasing system
+ 6. Power supply system
+ 7. Release system
+ 8. Fuel system
+ 9. Running gear
+ 10. Suspension bracket and steering
+ 11. Brake system
+ 12. Body
+ 13. Electric equipment
+ 14. Electroschemes




3.4.19. Turbonagnetatel

GENERAL INFORMATION

Prevention

Do not think at all of turbokompressor repair in house conditions.

Replace a faulty turbokompressor on new you can without special work.


Not so long ago there were those times when the car with a turbokompressor was automatically enlisted in a rank of the most sports, the most charged and, certainly, the most expensive. The distance of the huge size is passed for the last 15 years and today practically not to find the modern engine which does not have near similar unit.

In spite of the fact that details of a turbokompressor work at temperatures to 800 ° With and speeds in 50000–85000 revolutions per minute, they are rather reliable. However and they wear out and grow old, and the first units of a turbo-supercharging (they became really mass 5-7 years ago) already fail and, sometimes, it is accompanied by serious consequences.

However, not always it is necessary to blame a turbokompressor that the engine suddenly began to lose capacity. The banal collar which weakened and has flied from the pipeline, or the punched consolidation can become the reason for that.

More often, nevertheless, the reason of decrease in capacity of the power unit is the faulty turbokompressor. It is not necessary to try to repair it, and here to replace it quite under force on the majority of widespread cars.

The most difficult – the "charged" sports models, especially what are equipped with double turbonagnetatel. Standard work on their replacement at the dealer at this case is calculated at 12 o'clock. For models of such complexity it is recommended even not to think of repair in house conditions, and many of professionals refuse to undertake it if have no complete set of necessary tools and adaptations.

Nevertheless, it is not necessary to give in and in advance to be given. On the majority of models replacement of a turbokompressor can be made independently. The motor compartments overflowed with units with limited access to the engine will be the main problem. Sleight of hand and a S-shaped key will help here better than any special tools.

As well as any work on repair, replacement of a turbokompressor demands concentration and methodicalness. To Nachinta of that release access to units from pipelines, wires and other auxiliary knots. An empty seat it is required to you much, as it will be necessary to remove four (sometimes – three) nuts of a final collector, the reception pipe, three pipelines of giving and oil plum, and all pipelines of supply of air. With water cooling it is even more difficult than Turbokompressora because of additional details.

One of inevitable partners in life of a turbokompressor – high working temperatures. Thereof fastening nuts "are welded" on a final collector almost tightly and it is required to apply a significant amount of a preparation of the WD 40 type before the work beginning with them. After replacement of the main unit it is necessary to replace without fail nuts on new, made of stainless steel. If they are from usual steel, next time, possibly, to turn off them it will be almost impossible.

Hairpins can be turned on some turns when untwisting nuts, or even to be turned out completely. Carefully check, whether occurred distortions and carving damage. If the such occurred – restore a carving and wrap hairpins into place against the stop.

Not all designs of turbokompressor provide sealing laying in a junction with a final collector. Therefore be not surprised, if you did not find it at dismantle of this unit on your car. If laying after all was, surely establish new at the subsequent assembly.

Having removed a turbokompressor, check all released oil pipelines. For this purpose ask someone to include a starter (having removed high-voltage wires from the engine to exclude possibility of its start-up), and be convinced that oil moves freely. Having established a new turbokompressor, do this procedure once again that oil arrived to its bearings prior to the beginning of the "real" work. Turbokompressor bearings without oil – even for a second this the worst that he can test in the life!