Mitsubishi Pajero

1982-1998 of release

Repair and car operation

Mitsubisi Padzhero
+ 1.1. Dashboard and control units
+ 2. Maintenance
+ 3. Engines
+ 4. Cooling system
+ 5. Greasing system
+ 6. Power supply system
+ 7. Release system
+ 8. Fuel system
+ 9. Running gear
+ 10. Suspension bracket and steering
+ 11. Brake system
- 12. Body
   12.1. Maintenance and repair
   12.2. Vinyl furnish
   12.3. Upholstery and rugs
   12.4. Repair of small scratches
   12.5. Repair of dents
   12.6. Repair of openings from a rust or dents
   12.7. Filling and painting
   12.8. Repair of considerable damages
   12.9. Loops and locks
   12.10. Windscreen and motionless glasses
   12.11. Removal and installation of doors
   12.12. Door adjustment
   12.13. Removal and cowl installation
   12.14. Cowl adjustment
   12.15. Cover of a back compartment
   12.16. Bumpers
   12.17. Forward facing lattice
   12.18. External mirrors
   12.19. Forward aerial
   12.20. Removal and installation covered
   12.21. Body support (fastening to the chassis)
   12.22. Hatch
   12.23. Holder of a spare wheel
   + 12.24. Salon equipment
   12.25. Internal panels of doors
   12.26. Facing panels of salon
   12.27. Ceiling upholstery
   12.28. Switch of the door lock
   + 12.29. Door glass, window regulator and window regulator electric motor
   12.30. Windscreen
   12.31. Back glass
   12.32. Vnutrisalonnoye rear-view mirror
   + 12.33. Seats
   12.34. Seat belts
+ 13. Electric equipment
+ 14. Electroschemes

12.7. Filling and painting


Now well large number of fillers for body repair, however, frankly speaking, a set of details for body repair in which there is a filling paste, and a tube of a hardener of polymers best of all is suitable for carrying out repair work.

The wide flexible plastic or nylon applikator will be necessary for alignment of a surface of a shpatlevka for you.

1. Mix a small amount of a mix of a shpatlevka on a pure wooden plate or a piece of cardboard (economically spending a hardener). Follow instructions of producers on packing, differently the shpatlevka will harden incorrectly.
2. Using an applikator, put filling paste on the prepared surface.
3. Carry out an applikator on a shpatlevka surface to reach a desirable contour and to balance a shpatlevka surface.
4. When initial level and a contour will be reached, stop work with paste. If you continue, paste will stick to an applikator.
5. Continue to put thin layers of paste with 20-minute intervals while level of a shpatlevka will precisely not correspond to level of surrounding metal.
6. When the shpatlevka will harden, it is possible to remove its surplus by means of a file.
7. Further it is necessary to use an emery paper, gradually increasing its granularity, having begun with paper with an indicator of granularity of 180 units and having finished waterproof paper with an indicator of granularity of 600 units. Always reel up an emery paper on rubber or wooden whetstone, differently a surface of a shpatlevka will not be completely flat.
8. During polishing of a surface of a shpatlevka with an indicator of granularity of 600 units it is necessary to moisten a waterproof emery paper periodically in water. It will help to reach very smooth surface.
9. Now the ring of naked metal which, in turn, should be surrounded with the good intact paint should surround area of repair. Wash out area of repair by water until all dust which has remained after polishing, will not be removed.
10. On all smoothed-out surface apply a thin film a soil covering. It will help to find all defects on a shpatlevka surface.
11. Correct the found defects by means of a fresh shpatlevka or a lassirovka and once again smooth out a surface an emery paper.
12. Repeat procedure of drawing of a first coat and a shpatlevka until you will not be satisfied with quality of a surface of a shpatlevka and a paint edge.
13. Wash out a surface pure water and let's to it dry completely.
14. Now the area of repair is ready to painting. Coloring by dispersion is necessary for carrying out at warm, dry, windless weather when in air there will be no dust. These conditions can be reached, if you have an access to a big production room.
15. However if you have to work in the open air, to choose day of painting it is necessary very carefully. If you work indoors, sprinkle water a floor. It will help you to beat a dust which differently can rise in air.
16. If the area of repair is on one panel of a body, close all surrounding panels. It will help you to minimize small discrepancy in color paints.
17. Decorative details of furnish, such as and so on, it is also necessary to disguise or remove chromic slips, door handles. For masking use a sticky tape and several layers of paper.
18. Before dispersion carefully взболтайте paint, and then be trained to spray it to learn to do it correctly.
19. Put a thick layer of a first coat on a repaired surface. It is better to put some thin layers, than one thick.
20. By means of an emery paper with granularity of 600 units smooth out a first coat surface until it does not become very smooth.
21. During carrying out this operation the processed surface should be moistened with water carefully. The emery paper is also necessary for lowering periodically in water.
22. Let's to a first coat dry before drawing of additional layers.
23. Spray paint on the top layer, increasing its thickness by drawing of several layers.
24. Start to spray paint from the center of repaired area, and then, using roundabouts, process all repaired surface, and also about 5 cm of surrounding paint.
25. Remove all masking material in 10–15 minutes after drawing of the last paint coat.
26. Let's to new paint dry, at least, two weeks, and then by means of very thin grinding structure make imperceptible transition from new paint to initial.
27. In completion of work put a wax layer.